Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Easy Weeks

These are certainly some easy weeks for me as far as work is concerned. Last week was test week which means I didn't have to prepare lesson plans or teach, I just had to administer tests in each class. This involves nothing more than relaxing and reading a book as my students suffer and sweat and rack their brains to pass my exams. I know I have said this before, but especially now as it's finals time in colleges back home, I am enjoying being on the teacher side of tough tests. Although grading can be a bit tedious, I'd choose it over test-taking any day of the week.

This week is easy because we had Monday off. It was Children's Day here which is exactly what it sounds like. They actually don't have Mother's Day and Father's Day here, it's combined into Parent's Day. There is also a Teacher's Day which is celebrated just as much as the above holidays. On Children's Day, I gave each of my students (over 100!) a small gift. I had fun picking them out...I gave the younger students nifty pencils and erasers and the older students got small games (Gyonggi - similar to jacks). I can't wait to see what I get on Teacher's Day. Last week one of my student's mothers gave me a loaf of home made bread and some home made blackberry jam. It was my favorite gift so far.

Next week will also be easy because we have NEXT Monday off as well. It's Buddha's Birthday which is a holiday celebrated throughout Asia with festivals and parades. Should be exciting! My baseball team (The Woori Heroes) is playing at home this weekend so I'll be there cheering them on come Saturday. I actually went to see them play an away game in Incheon this past Monday since I didn't have work. It was about 1.5 hours away but it was a gorgeous day and this adorable little Korean boy befriended me. He must have been about 5. He sat next to me and spoke Korean incessantly in a tone of voice full of that urgency every 5-year-0ld has when trying to convey a point. I didn't understand a word he said, of course, but everytime he paused for breath, I said, "Really?" and he exclaimed, "YES!". I guess that was the only English word he knew. At one point when I was standing up cheering I felt his little arms around me and I looked down and he was hugging me! It was precious. Here are some pictures:

Cute little boy outside the stadium

Cute little girl inside the stadium

Fellow Woori fans/friends I have seen at the past two games.

A beautiful day for baseball! That's a soccer arena in the background.

This is my little friend from the game!

Here is is again, with his friend. So precious!

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Little Things...

I love some of the little things about Korea so much. Like how I wanted to have some eggs for dinner but I didn't want to buy a dozen which you almost always have to do in the States. But here, at the convenience store, you can buy just as many eggs as you want. So I bought 3 and it was about $0.85.

I love how at McDonald's when you order something to-go they have these little plastic bags for your drink cups that have a separator in the middle and a shape so the cup stands up and you can carry it. It's much better than the top heavy carriers they usually give you back home.

I love how you always have to pay an extra $0.10 a bag when you go to the grocery store here - its a great incentive to remember to bring your own and to think more about recycling and the environment.

I love how geeky some of my students are. Today I walked into class and said to one of my classes, "Ok, we are going to have a spelling test today" and there was a resounding, "YEAAAHHH!!!" with more than one fist punching victoriously into the air. This little boy, Min-Jae said, "Teacher I LOVE spelling tests!" Shocking. But I suppose they love the challenge. The first thing they wanted to know was how many stamps they would get for a perfect store.

I love the strange little treats my kids give me. Like today, for instance, when once student gave me a squished quarter of a seafood salad sandwich on white bread which she had made herself and wrapped in plastic wrap. Huh...

I love the language barrier. Today I was coughing in class so this little boy (Kyung-Sub) came up and handed me a Korean brand throat lozenger. He said, "Teacher. You!" and pointed to the cough drop. I took it and he explained to me, "Neck candy!" as he pointed to his neck. "Because teacher doing this" and he coughed dramatically. Neck candy? Aahhh I see. Your 8-year old English vocabulary does expand to include the word "throat" but "neck" is the obvious next best body part. And of course you dont know the word "lozenger" and it is kind of like candy if you think about it. So I think I will forever call my Hall's "neck candy" now thanks to Kyung-Sub.

I collected English diaries today (every Monday). In one, after her required 10-sentence diary entry my student wrote this. I have left in the spelling errors for fun.

Subjet: Letter

Dear Teacher: Hello, Teacher! I am Chae-Won. How are you, Teacher? I'm fine, thank you. I love you, teacher! Teacher, do you have the boyfreind? I'm curous. I'm sorry, teacher, my before diary was not good. Next time diary is good. Yes, I think so. Teacher, you like food? Please answer my letter. I love you teacher!

Love,
Chae-Won


I love my job!

Monday, April 21, 2008

This week's news

Another Monday of teaching finished. I love my job! I got an adorable journal entry today where my student said he "swam in the fool" but I think he meant "pool" and then at the end he said, "This day was very cool. Yes, this was my happy day!" So cute...

The weekend was GORGEOUS. 78 and sunny for the baseball game which my team WON 12 - 4. My favorite player, the only Western guy on the team is named Cliff Brumbaugh. He hit a 3-run homer AND a solo homer. It was great. We sat in foul ball territory and I almost caught a ball hit by the opposing team. The guy next to me caught it instead and he thought about giving it to me but the crowd was chanting to give it to a Lotte Giants fan, not an Woori fan (I was sitting in enemy fan territory) so he gave it to a kid Lotte fan. Turns out, the whole thing was on tape so everyone watching the game saw me! So when I went to work today a bunch of other teachers told me they saw me on TV! I have to admit I'm pretty excited to have been on Korean television at a ball game. :)

So I'm sitting here watching That 70's Show (I dont even notice the Korean subtitles on things anymore) and eating some spicy noodles. Spring is here full-force now. Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the flowers they've planted all over my neighborhood. They're beautiful and they smell amazing. This Saturday my friends and I have a trip booked to the DMZ. That's the demilitarization zone between North and South Korea, in case you weren't sure. Read all about it here if you want. I will definitely have some pictures to post after that trip! Should be really interesting...

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Take me out to the ball game!

Spring in Korea means many things, such as polluted air courtesy of China, more people crowding onto the subway, and of course, something one always needs, more vendors selling larva worms as a snack on the street. But there is one thing that spring brings in Korea that is reminiscent of home and that is BASEBALL!

The Korean Baseball Organization (KBO) is made up of nine MLB-comparable teams. Here they are (in their current standings, just for fun)
Lotte Giants
SK Wyverns
Samsung Lions
Woori Heroes (whooooo! hooo!!!)
Doosan Bears
LG Twins
Hanwha Eagles
Kia Tigers

I am officially an Woori Heroes fan. LG is the most popular team. They have a huge fan base. Kind of like the Red Sox maybe? The Samsung Lions are like the Yankees - they win a lot but they also have all the money. The Woori Heroes are like the Angels or the Astros. They were only recently moved to Mokdong (near me) and bought by Woori (a tobacco company). They were formerly the Hyundai Unicorns. I'm glad that's no longer the case. Unicorns is just about the least baseball-y name I can think of. Although come to think of it "Angels" isn't that great either.

So this weekend I went to not one but TWO baseball games at the Woori Heroes "new" stadium. The stadium wasn't too impressive in that it's kind of dated but it was a decent size and the field was beautiful. A few of the stadiums have real grass but Woori's doesnt. The baseball atmosphere here was the same, if not better, than it is back home. Fans get "thunder sticks", these inflatable cheering devices that gain their name from the loud noise they make when you beat them together. They're a great addition to baseball games in my opinion. Just like at home fans make signs and posters. Unlike the stingy stadiums at home, you can bring any food or drink you want into the stadiums here. Or, if you want to buy food at the game you will find all the snacks the same exact price as anywhere else. Now its not America so they are serving gimbap and ramyeon in lieu of hot dogs and nachos but everything is dirt cheap. No $7.00 small fry here!

Two funny things about Korean baseball games:
1. Because you are allowed to bring food in, tons of fans stop at fast food joints along the way to pick up a snack. We saw people with KFC, McD's, Burger King, and even entire pies from Pizza Hut. So there might not be hot dogs at the game but you can bring your own greasy food to simulate the American baseball experience.
2. There are cheerleaders at baseball games here! Not pyramid-making backflip-doing cheerleaders, just four girls who danced around on the dug out and led the crowd through chants and fight songs. And of course danced with the mascot (haven't figured out what he is yet). They even had a "kiss cam" during the - well here's another strange thing. There is no 7th inning stretch. It's at the end of the 6th inning instead. Kind of makes sense, it's closer to the middle of the game.

Well, that's about it on Korean baseball. I plan to go to lots more games and cheer on my team. They are playing at home this weekend so the plan is to hit the game on Saturday. That's all for now!














A round at the battin cages after the game: $0.50
A coke at the stadium: $1
Ice cream cone at the game: $1.50
Front row seats on first base line: $6
Seats right behind home plate: $8
Box seats with your own table, snacks, and bathroom: $14
Watching a game that transcends age, gender, language, culture, and geography: priceless

Monday, April 7, 2008

Monday, April 7th

The weather has finally changed and it actually feels like Spring. Apparently Spring usually comes early and the weather turns mild in March but this year it was pretty cold right up until Friday. All weekend it was high 60's. Friday night I got together with some local friends for a wine and cheese girls night in. Saturday was lots of fun, I went with a group of friends to the Seoul horse races. It was a gorgeous day and we sat outside, soaking up the sun as we watched a few races. It was some kind of family day so there were lots of kids and activities and admission was free. Saturday evening I went mini golfing with my friend on the roof of this huge building. It was really fun. Sunday was another beautiful day and I headed to church in the afternoon. My church is doing an orphanage reach-out program that I really want to join. They train volunteers for a few weeks on how to minister to children in orphanages here and then you go to one orphanage every Saturday for 2 months and work with the kids there. You have to have the training first and they didn't know when they were starting again but hopefully it will be soon because I'd really like to do that!

Last week I was sick (just a cold) AGAIN. I have been sick at least once every month since I got here. Everything from tummy trouble to common colds to the time I ended up in the hospital with a fever of 104. I guess my body has just had a hard time adjusting to Asia. And while some things in Korea (like the subway) are really clean, some things (like the air) are really dirty.

The thing about having a cold in Korea is that there are vitamins (especially C) galore. At any convenience store, next to the Coke, and various sodas and drinks, are rows of different vitamin drinks. They usually come in small glass bottles and you can buy a case of 12 for around 5USD. Vitamin C is especially popular, there are many vitamin C drinks (my favorite is one called Lemon-C which kind of tastes like carbonated lemonade) but it also comes in different forms like candy and a powder you pour directly onto your tongue. It's also extremely common to give Vitamin C-items as gifts here. So often a teacher at my school will bring in a big box of Vitamin-C drinks and give one to all the teachers. Or my students often give me a Vitamin drink or, more commonly, Vitamin-C candy. Perhaps the modern version of giving your teacher an apple...

Speaking of my students, here are some recent pictures from my classes:

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Scary stuff in the news...

NKorea lashes out at SKorea's leader 'Lee'

SEOUL (AFP) — North Korea Tuesday launched its first verbal attack on new South Korean President Lee Myung-Bak, saying his tougher policy towards the nation could have "catastrophic consequences."

The lengthy and vitriolic attack, describing the conservative leader as a US sycophant and a traitor, comes as tensions are rising between the two nations.

On Sunday the North's official media claimed that Seoul was planning a preemptive military strike and threatened to turn South Korea into "ashes" if it went ahead.

In recent days the North has also expelled South Korean officials from a joint industrial complex, test-fired missiles, accused Seoul of breaching a disputed sea border and threatened to suspend all dialogue.

Media reports say sorties by the North's jet fighters have also increased near the heavily fortified border.

[South Korean] President Lee, who took office five weeks ago after winning elections in December, has pledged a tougher line against North Korea, including linking economic aid to the impoverished nation to its nuclear disarmament. (Lee has said that South Korea will stop all economic aid to the North unless the North gets rid of all its nukes and changes its human rights standards)

Tuesday's commentary in Rodong Sinmun, a newspaper of the ruling communist party, described Lee's policy as a "declaration of war", and also blasted his intention to press the North on its human rights record.

"Lee Myung-Bak should not misjudge the patience and silence so far kept by the DPRK (North Korea)," it declared.

"The Lee regime will be held fully accountable for the irrevocable catastrophic consequences to be entailed by the freezing of inter-Korean relations and the disturbance of peace and stability on the Korean Peninsula due to its sycophancy towards the US and its moves for confrontation with the North."

[The South Korean] Grand National Party (GNP), responding late Monday to the "ashes" threat, called on the North to stop "blackmailing" the South.

"We should face North Korea's military threat dauntlessly and resolutely," the party said in a statement.

Analysts say the North may be trying to sway the South's April 9 [parliamentary] election. The GNP wants to win a parliamentary majority over liberal rivals who practised a decade-long "sunshine" engagement policy towards Pyongyang.

They say the North may also want to undermine Lee before his first summit with US President George W. Bush this month.

read the rest here

Monday, March 31, 2008

Weekend

It was a lovely, relaxing weekend. Friday night I celebrated another successful month of teaching (Thursday and Friday were monthly test days) by ordering a pepperoni pizza. $15 for a small pie might seem like highway robbery but when you've pretty much eaten only rice and soup all week, it's more than worth it. I came home from work, got into comfy clothes, and settled into grading a mountain of tests with some Discovery Channel on for background noise. Quite the exciting Friday night, I know. Saturday was rainy so I bought a pink umbrella, hopped on the subway, and headed to Yongsan for some much needed retail therapy. Since I came to Korea in October most of the clothes I brought are for fall and winter. I have very little in the way of warm weather garb. 2 hours, a bag full of clothes, 1 delicious California roll later I headed to a large Barnes-and-Noble-like bookstore. I savored the novelty of seeing my native language in print as I perused the three-aisle oasis otherwise known as the "English Section". When I got back to my apartment I cleaned up a bit and made some steak fajitas. Yay for the Mexican seasoning packets that came in my care packages! After dinner I went to a friends house to watch a movie. Today (Sunday) I went to church. The church I'm going to now is really big but it somehow still felt warm and homey. The people are so nice and there are many foreigners. The pictures here are of my church. After the service my friend Joanna and I went to a coffee shop and talked for about two hours. Joanna is Korean, she studied English for a year in Canada and now she is one of the Korean teachers (who teach English) at my school. She is my age and single and a Christian and loves talking and coffee and shopping so we have lots in common and get along great! After spending time with Joanna I headed back to Cheolsan. Sunday nights have turned into a tradition of dinner and card games with my 3 closes friends from work. Turns out a group of four people is especially conducive to playing card games. Tonight we ordered Chinese and played some Euchre. Guys against girls with the losing team's penalty being they have to make dinner for the winning team one night this week. Sadly Fran and I lost but luckily I love cooking!

6 months!

In some ways it has gone by in a flash but in other ways it seems like ages ago that I first arrived in this strange and foreign land. It's amazing what I've done and gone through in the past six months. From lonely homesick nights to fun-filled day trips with new friends. From getting lost in the city alone with no money and no cell phone battery (terrifying!!) to not even having to bring my subway map when I'm out and about in Seoul. When I first came I couldn't read anything. Now I can sound out any word and I can understand a good many of then. I can even understand bits of conversations. I've grown accustomed to the nitty-gritty ways of Korean life. The smelly food, the people spitting anytime and anywhere they want, the reckless driving, the pushing and shoving. I've come to love the whiny, sing-song intonation of the Korean language. The funny mistakes my kids make when speaking English. On Friday my student asked me, "Teacher, how big is your old?" Translation: How old are you? I love it. When I first came the food made me terribly ill each and every time I ate it. Now I go for a week eating only Korean food and things that made me cry when I first tasted them now don't even seem spicy. I desperately love my job and I desperately miss my home. I am relieved that I am halfway to coming home and at the same time can't bear to think of leaving this country which truly feels like my home now. Who knows what the next 6 months will bring? My time here thus far has vacillated between exhilarating and excruciating and everything in between but one thing is for sure: moving to Korea was a wonderful and important decision that has forever changed my life.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Hello! or as we say in Korea: Anyang!

I know I haven't been blogging often lately...writing for me is like working out - the less I do it, the harder it is to get back into it. Similarly, once I start doing it regularly, it gets easier and easier. I recently started reading my sister-in-law's blog. It describes the ups and downs of stay-at-home-motherhood. It was so much fun to read! Sometimes I don't blog because I think people couldn't possibly be interested in reading about my life. But I enjoyed reading my sister-in-law's blog so much, it made me realize, blogs really are fun to read!

Since I haven't been writing regularly, I'll try to catch you up to speed with one of my favorite things: a list!

Ten Notable Koreanisms


10. Koreans love their American phrases. "Nice Shot!" is a popular one. As in when I drop ANYTHING in class my kids all go, "Woah! Nice Shot!". They pick phrases up from movies and TV. A popular one among young people is "oh my god" which, given an overall ignorance over what the phrase actually means, has been changed to "oh my got!". My kids say it all the time. They know when to use it too ("Oh my got teacher, I didn't do my homework!" or "Copy 3 times??? Oh my got, teacher!") but they have NO clue what the phrase means.
9. They want bigger noses. I think I mentioned this before. Koreans generally have small noses, and they are usually flat with a very low bridge. To most Korean women, it seems having a high set nose and a long nose is considered regal and beautiful. People are always pointing to my nose. Just the other day I was browsing in a store and out of the corner of my eye I saw the saleswoman gesture to her coworker, point to my face, and make a Pinocchio-like movement on her own nose. This happens to me quite often and it was embarrassing until I found out that most Korean women want a nose just like mine. My friend Jamie from work is always telling me I have such a beautiful nose and how Korean women want bigger noses.
8. Koreans are the nicest people when they are waiting on you, or talking to you, or working with you. But when you're strangers walking down the street, they will push you aside, cut you off, or ram in to you without a second thought. They have horrible walking manners. When getting on a subway they will push you or shove you aside if you are in their way. And they never say excuse me or the Korean equivalent. This was something I had to get used to. As much as Americans have a global reputation for rudeness, I definitely think we have the Koreans beat on this one. It is still socially unacceptable, I think, to push someone aside in order to get past them in the States, especially without saying excuse me. But, like I said, here it's acceptable and you get used to it. In fact, if you don't do the same, you'll never get anywhere and end up waiting for the next train because you were too polite to assert your position in line.
7. Korean woman are always dressed up. No exaggeration here. They don't just dress up, they seem to have this nation-wide dress code of tights, skirts, layered tops, pretty coats, and designer (or at least knock-off) handbags. In a way it's nice. American women, I think, could use a little more femininity in their dress these days. It is rare to see a Korean woman in jeans and a top. If they do wear jeans and a top, its Korean style: perfectly fitted jeans, a fashionable top, stilettos, and, of course, a designer handbag.
6. Unlike in the Big Apple and other US cities, Koreans NEVER J-walk. Despite their high-paced lifestyles and determination to get wherever they are going as fast as possible, no matter who they have to shove aside, they only cross a street when given explicit license to do so by the little green "Walk" man on the lit-up sign. This is probably due to the fact that Koreans drive like maniacs and stepping onto a street is virtually a death wish. See the next point for more on this issue.
5. Koreans are horrible drivers! They drive fast, reckless, and with zero regard for any kind of traffic laws. There may or may not be strict traffic rules in Korea. It really doesn't make a difference. They don't use turn signals, run red lights all the time, weave in and out of lanes and traffic, and cut each other off. The only thing that might be more dangerous than driving in Korea is being a pedestrian in Korea. The situation is made even more dangerous by the constant presence of speeding scooter and motorcycle riders who have free reign not only of the roads but of sidewalks, alleys, medians, and anywhere else they can possible maneuver their vehicles at hair-raising speeds.
4. Customer service here is wonderful. I am getting so spoiled. Going to a McDonalds in Korea is nothing like going to one in the States. The place is spotless, the employees wear clean, adorable uniforms, and they are completely focused on serving you. Whenever you walk into ANY store, bank, restaurant, etc. here every employee within earshot will welcome you with a chorus of "Anyeong-Ha-Sayo!" and the same when you leave with "Anyeongi-gah-se-oh!". They may not speak English but they will smile and try to help you as best they can. Even the man at the convenient store is friendly and kind. For some reason you just don't have the attitude-laden, eye-contact-avoiding, talking-to-their-co-worker-while-ringing-you-up cashiers you find in the States.
3. They have caramel popcorn at the movies here! In fact, they prefer it to buttered popcorn. When you go to a Korean movie theater, the advertisements for concessions show pictures of caramel corn. At the theaters I've been to, you have to ask specifically for regular buttered popcorn if you prefer it.
2. At a Korean table, whether at a restaurant or at home, one's cutlery consists of a pair of chopsticks and a large spoon. In fact, at restaurants, you never find a table set with napkins and cutlery. The table is bare except for a box of tiny napkins and a box with chopsticks and spoons inside. Whoever sits at the end distributed the chopsticks and spoons to everyone else at the table. Also water is free but it is self serve. Restaurants serve water in two ways: They have a water cooler with metal cups in a sanitizer next to it. You just take a cup from the sanitizer and help yourself. Otherwise they bring you a jug of water and you pour it yourself. Now, in Koreanism #4 I said customer service here was wonderful however this does not apply to servers at restaurants. I mean, they're friendly but they don't do a lot other than bring you your food. This is OK though because A) usually you are all sharing from one big dish anyway and B) there is no tipping in Korea so you're not really paying for service.
1. The "uh". This is the sound Koreans put at the end of as many English words as they are able. Basically, any word that ends in a consonant, they add an "uh" sound to at the end. This is because in Korean, sentences and phrases rarely end in consonants, they almost always end in vowels. So Koreans tack "uh" onto any English word that doesn't end in a vowel sound. Let's take McDonalds. Well first of all they pronounce it "Mick-doe-nald-uh". If I want a #1 meal I have to say, "Number 1 Set-uh". The word for a combo meal is actually "set" but if you don't add the "uh" they don't get it. Similarly "cup" is pronounced "cup-uh", "knife" is "knife-uh" etc. etc. I have grown accustomed to speaking this way. So now when my students tell me they went to the park-uh or ate steak-uh, I know what their saying. Just for fun, here is a cute Korean McDonalds commercial. Among the last few words spoken in the commercial are "dessert menu" and "McDonalds". See if you can hear them and listen to the pronounciation!
Click here for the commercial

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Yellow Dust

The weather is starting to warm up and people are starting to talk about the "yellow dust" which will be arriving soon. Yellow Dust is a springtime weather phenomenon which affects Korea and other Southeast Asian countries. The dust originates in the deserts of Mongolia, northern China, and Kazakhstan when intense dust storms kick up huge clouds of fine, dry soil particles. These clouds of dust are then carried over China, North and South Korea, and Japan, as well as parts of the Russian Far East. You can see the dust in the air and it makes the sky all cloudy. It's known to cause a variety of health problems, such as sore throat and asthma in otherwise healthy people. People are advised to minimize outdoor activities, depending on severity of the storms. For those already with asthma or respiratory infections, it can be fatal.

The yellow dust contains the following: sulfur, soot, ash, carbon monoxide, and other toxic pollutants including heavy metals and other carcinogens. They also carry viruses, bacteria, fungi, pesticides, antibiotics, asbestos, herbicides...lovely, huh? SO what do Koreans do to avoid inhaling this horrible yellow stuff? They wear masks anytime they are outside. From the littlest baby to the oldest senior citizen. And guess who is going to be wearing a mask throughout the spring as well? ME!


Friday, February 29, 2008

Funny Diaries

I love reading the things my kids write in their English Diaries. Here are some recent ones...

"Today I played baseball. Baseball is a very good sport because I am growing and it's very exciting. So, I like baseball. But today the ball was hit my hand! Very hard! So I was hit the ball back but it didn't break. So my hand was more hurt. This was a very strong ball. So I fought with the ball and I was the winner. I kicked the ball and it flew into the sky."

"Today is Sunday. I went to church. I saw my best friend Da-Sol. Da-Sol is a friend of long-standing and a good friend and a lifelong friend and a congenial friend and a reliable friend. I like her very very much. Da-Sol went to church too. After church we bought new sixth grade school things. I bought one music notebook, one english notebook, and two noting notebooks. The cost was 9,000 won. It was very expensive but I was not repentance. Today was a very happy and fruitful day."

"Today is the 15th of February by the lunar calendar. Today's moon is very big and shining. My family went to the mountain and saw the big moon. My family said a prayer to the moon. When we came down the sky was very dark. It was dangerous but we were impartial"

Impartial? Congenial? Repentance? I think they've discovered the English-Korean dictionary! :)

Thursday, February 28, 2008

The Strangest Thing I've Ever Eaten...

On Saturday I went to my first Korean class. It was both incredibly exciting and incredibly difficult. Korean is so difficult! With romance languages there are so many similarities to English and you can use Latin roots to figure things out. Korean is completely foreign... But I have memorized the alphabet and am currently working on learning to read. On Saturday I learned how to say "My name is Kayla" (Jae irimeun Kayla imnida), "I'm American" (Jae eun Mi-guk saram imnida) and other useful, basic phrases. Like "seun-sang-nim" which means "teacher". So now I know what my kids have been shouting in a panic to each other ("Kayla seun-sang-nim!!!") when they hear me coming down the hall...

After Korean lessons, I went out for delicious sushi in Hongdae (the university district of Seoul) with my Canadian friend Fran and my Korean friend Jamie. After some delicious rolls and some hot sake we went to this tiny hold-in-the-wall place with only four tables because Jamie wanted us to try one of her favorite Korean snacks. It's not that common, but it's somewhat popular among young people. The snack turned out to be the strangest thing I've ever eaten in my life. Here's what it was: you take a square of seaweed paper ("gim") and lay it on your palm. Then you spoon into it some cucumber slices, carrot slices, lettuce, mint leaf, onion, and fish eggs. Then you put a dollop of peanut butter on top. Finally you roll in up into a neat little packet and dip it in wasabi soy sauce. Then you eat it. Sound gross? It was. So gross I got to see it in reverse quite soon after eating it. At least I tried it!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Traditions of Seolnal

Seolnal is one of the two major Korean holidays, the other being Chusok (Harvest Moon Festival). Korean New Year is actually the Lunar New Year which is often refered to as the Chinese New Year. During this 3-day holiday, it is obligatory to travel to one's hometown and visit relatives, bringing expensive gifts of food and drink. Many Koreans dress up in hanbok, the traditional Korean clothing. The children and grandchildren perform a ritual called "saebae" in which they bow deeply to their elders as a sign of respect and say "saehae bok manhi badeseyo" (literally: "receive a lot of New Year's luck!") If they do a good job, they are rewarded with envelopes of money. On Seolnal all Korean's eat ddeok-guk, pronounced duck-gook which is rice cake soup. The soup is made by diagonally slicing rice cakes into thin, oval slices. The rice cake slices are soaked in water, then boiled in beef broth. The soup is garnished with chives, seaweed, and egg and is eaten for good luck in the New Year. My favorite thing about being in Korea during Seolnal was getting to see Korean people all dressed up in the traditional clothing, Hanbok. Here are some pictures of what it looks like. It's so beautiful!








This last picture is of my friend Hannah who is Korean-Canadian but moved to Korea to teach and got married here. She had a Western stype wedding and also a Korean style wedding. This picture was taking at her Korean wedding. Isn't it beautiful?

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Seolnal (Lunar New Year)

For Seolnal (February 6-9) I got 3 days off from work plus the weekend. On Tuesday night a group of us went out for dinner and then to a Noraebang (노래방). Noraebangs are private karaoke rooms. You go and pay a set price (it's really cheap) and you get a private room with tables, couches, two microphones, and your very own karaoke equipment, complete with monitors that display the lyrics of the songs you choose. The great thing is they have tons of English songs. I've gone 3 times since I've been here and it's a really fun group activity.

The next day we all chilled out and basked in the glory of a Wednesday with no work. Fran and I went on a huge food shopping trip and then we had all had a movie night. For the holiday our Korean boss had given all of the teachers a choice between two New Years gift options. Option one was entitled "Spam Gift Set". Option two was a choice between a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon or a bottle of Merlot. And yes, the first option was indeed a Spam Gift Set which is exactly what it sounds like - 10 cans of spam. elegantly wrapped and presented in a lovely gift box. Spam is a huge deal here - kind of a delicacy, actually. Koreans really like to put in everything - soup, sushi, sandwiches... Funnily enough all of the Korean teachers chose the Spam Gift Set. All of the foreign teachers chose the wine. I got the Merlot. So Wednesday night we kicked of our vacation time by cracking open our free wine and enjoying it with some delicious brie cheese.

Thursday was New Years and the city was eerily quiet. There was hardly anyone on the subway, and nearly all businesses were closed due to the holiday. Everyone was home celebrating with family. Thankfully, some museums were still open so Fran and I spent the day at the National Museum of Korea - the biggest museum (in terms of building size) that I have ever seen in my life! I'm not sure if the pictures capture it or not. Anyway, the museum is full of historical artifacts (pots, weapons, paintings, pots, tools, jewelry, pots, scrolls, statues, pots...), mostly from Korea but some from Japan and China as well. Thursday night since it was New Year's, we got dressed up and went out for dinner at the only Western Restaurant around: Outback Steakhouse! Unfortunately, Outback here is such a commodity that it is ridiculously overpriced - the cheapest entrees are between $30 - 40 each. So we decided to just get appetizers to share and it was sooo yummy.

Friday Fran and I bundled up and headed to the Seoul Museum of Art. Friday was the opposite in terms of city bustle. Thursday was kind of like Thanksgiving in the states. Every one is home so for a while there is no one out and about. But Friday was like Black Friday - everyone was suddenly out and everything was unbelievably crowded!

The reason we went to the Seoul Museum of Art was because they are currently showing a Van Gogh exhibit! We saw over 60 original Van Gogh works, including drawings and paintings. It was really amazing. It was also ridiculously packed but it was so nice to see that Seoulites were eagerly taking advantage of such a wonderful opportunity in their city. After the museum we went to see "Nanta", the longest running show in Korea. It is a non-verbal performance done by 5 actors. It combines rhythms of traditional Korean folk music with modern music all centered around a cooking theme. So the performers do all kinds of rhythms and beats with cooking utensils and they actually cook food on stage, etc. One review referred to it as a combination of "Iron Chef, Blue Man Group, and The Marx Brothers". It was really impressive and highly entertaining. Definitely worth the price of admission.

So that was Lunar New Year! Unfortunately there aren't many pictures because you can't take pictures inside museums or inside the theater....

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Changdeokgung Palace

The kings of the Korean Joseon Dynasty built what are refered to as the "Five Great Palaces of Seoul". On Saturday I got to tour one of them: Changdeokgung Palace. It was build in 1405, during the Joseon Dynasty. All the palaces in Seoul were destroyed during the Japanese Invasion of 1592-1598. This particular palace was reconstructed in 1865 and functioned thereafter as the main palace in Seoul until the end of the Joseon Dynasty (1910).

One of the interesting characteristics of Changdeokgung is that it was designed to blend in with the topography of the land instead of disrupt nature. There are 13 buildings on the palace grounds and 28 pavilions in the gardens. The palace occupies 110 acres. Changdeokgung was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The UNESCO committee inscribing the site stated that the place was an "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and adapted "to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover."

Here are my pictures. I went with a group of friends: Fran (Can.), Dan(UK), Glenn(Can.), Andrea(Can.), Jamie(Kor.) & Richard(U.K.)...













Me and my best friend in Korea!

L to R: Dan, Glenn, Richard, Andrea, Jamie, Fran

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Square Eggs, Skiing, and Sauvignon

Last night I went to a wine tasting with my three best friends. It was held at this really nice wine bar in Bucheon. It was very cozy with lots of paintings, warm ambience lighting, and jazz playing softly in the background. A Korean wine connoisseur taught us all about wine and how its made and we got to taste 6 varieties from different countries including Chile, California, France, Italy and Australia. We also got to eat delicious gourmet cheese. The wine tasting lasted about 2 hours after which we stayed and chatted for a while. It was such a nice, relaxing time.

My school just started a new school year so I now have an entire new schedule with new students, new classes, and some new curriculum. It is a little frustrating since I had finally become settled into my schedule here and figured out what I was doing but it's also fun to get new students and shake things up a bit. My new schedule is actually heavier than my last one in that I have more classes and fewer breaks. But I am teaching more younger kids now which I like better. I think older kids intimidate me despite the fact that they understand what I'm saying better. I think it's because I'm still pretty young myself. I have one class with ten 12 year old boys. Should be interesting trying to keep them in line...

I have a group of 3 friends that I do a lot with. The four of us work together, go to the gym together, eat together, hang out together... Glenn is from Canada, Dan is from England, and Fran is also from Canada. Having three gym buddies keeps us all working out consistently. We recently discovered a smoothie/sandwich place in town which makes delicious fruity drinks (great post-workout snack!) and yummy egg sandwiches. We call it the square egg place because they use this square metal thing to cook the eggs in so they come out shaped like a square. So I've started receiving text messages around 10am that say "Square eggs?".

We are planning a ski trip in March. I haven't been skiing in a couple years. In Korea your lift ticket package includes rentals, lift ticket, and even your ski attire for $70 - $100. I hear the mountains here are really crowded. I'm excited to leave the city though. Haven't done anything outside of Seoul since I've been here. Next week is Solnal, the Korean New Year. We get Wed, Thurs, and Fri off of work. Since I came home for Christmas, I couldn't really afford a big trip. Dan and his buddy are going to Beijing. Fran and I are planning on seeing some sights around Seoul. We have a whole list of things we want to see. Should make for some good pictures up here in a little over a week!

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Day to Day Stuff

Christmas vacation and hospital scares behind me, I am back into my routine here and doing better than ever. I feel like I am over the first 3-month hurdle and I definitely feel a strong sense of belonging here in Korea. A lot of that has to do with the friends I have made and how much I love my job. But other things contribute as well such as the fact that I've gotten used to the food, I've learned "the ropes" of taking taxis, buses, and the subway, I'm getting better at reading and speaking Korean, and I have overcome a significant number of other cultural obstacles. I am half way through my fourth full month here. 109 days since I arrived in Korea to be exact.

I've added some things to my daily routine. This month I joined a local gym, where I have been consistently (3x a week) working out with a friend. Very "January" of me, I know :). I am also now a regular at several local restaurants where I have branched out in not only what I order but how much Korean I use when ordering. I have mastered chopsticks and the Korean drink-pouring techniques (when out with a group there are detailed procedures for how to pour and receive drinks including where to put your hands, arms, etc). I have found 3 great coffee shops within walking distance of my house which I enjoy on a regular basis. I have a close group of friends with whom I hang out almost every day after work and on Saturdays (making dinner, going out to eat, shopping trips, coffee house chats, game nights, going dancing). I know how to read my bills, pay my bills, send money home, use payphones, buy subway tickets, get a haircut, barter at the market, work my washing machine, turn on the heat in my apartment, and ask for directions.

I'm assimilating and adjusting and I love it!

Friday, January 11, 2008

Jjimjilbangs

Jjimjilbangs (Korean saunas) are places where one can go to relax and perspire in heat generated by different kinds of stones (jade, charcoal, etc). Jjimjilbangs use thermo-therapy which causes you to perspire, excreting internal wastes and toxins, increasing metabolism and relaxing your body. They are much more than just saunas though. They are huge, 24 hour, partially gender-segregated public bathhouses. The segregated portions have hot tubs, showers, and various spa treatments such as massages. The unisex portions include snack bars, large common areas with heated floors and massage chairs, flat-screen TVs, PC rooms, sleeping quarters and the actual sauna. Jjimjilbangs are a popular activity for entire families, groups of teenagers, groups of women or men, and couples.

So Wednesday was my first time going to one of these Korean saunas. I went with my friend Dan from work. As soon as we got there and paid ($8 to get in), we headed toward our respective gender areas of the building. Men and women each have their own floor and then there are several floors where men and women can both go. After I was issued my sauna clothes - a cotton, loose fitting t-shirt and shorts (pink for girls, blue for boys) I went to the women's floor. This consisted of a huge open room with a snack bar, a place to buy hair and body products, lots of mirrors and vanity stations, and lots of lockers. I put my things in a locker and changed into my sauna clothes. Then I headed to the common area to meet Dan. The common area was this huge room with heated floors. There was a snack shop where you could get fruity drinks and healthy snacks. There were some TVs. People were just lying on the floor with cushions under their heads, relaxing, sleeping, or watching TV. There was a group of 5 middle aged women sitting in a circle just chatting and eating oranges. There were also a row of those big, leather massaging recliners. Dan and I headed downstairs to the actual sauna portion. There were 5 sauna rooms of varying heat levels. They looked like this:

The walls and ceilings were made of beautiful stone mosaics and the floors were covered with bamboo mats. There are certain rooms where you can lie on special flat, heated stones or on some kind of gravel. We chose a moderately hot room (49 C/120F). We had each brought a book and they give you these hard pillow things for under your head so we just laid down and read and sweated for as long as we could stand it. After about 15 minutes we went and got mango juice and sat in the massage chairs for a while. We repeated that cycle 2 more times. After an hour of that, we headed off to our respective floors again for the really unique part. After all the sweating, you go shower and bathe. With dozens of other Korean women. No clothing allowed.

American culture doesnt really have any activities where you hang out naked for extended periods of time with members of the same sex. In Korea, it's no big deal and they don't think twice about it. There were women of all ages, just walking around, bathing, showering, talking, watching TV. Not a shred of clothing.

From the women's locker area there is a glass door leading to the women's bath house. This area is large and open and consists of jacuzzis and tubs of varying temperatures, rows of sit down and stand up showers (just open, no stalls or anything), more saunas, heat lamps for lounging under, small swimming pools and massage tables. Two cardinal cultural rules: no bathing suits or clothing of any kind allowed in this room, and ALWAYS shower before getting into a tub or jacuzzi.

After showering and soaking for a while you head back to the locker room area where there are vanity tables stocked with hair dryers, cotton swabs, hair spray, lotions, etc. You clean up, get changed and head back out the way you came in. All in all its an incredibly relaxing experience and if you can get past the culture shock of hanging around with no clothes in front of total strangers, it ends up being a really nice time.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Pyung-Won

That is the Korean word for hospital. How do I know this? Because I went to a "pyung-won" twice on Friday. Thursday I felt sick with flu-like symptoms but, reluctant to use one of my 3 sick days for the year, I went to work anyway. I took lots of medicine throughout the day but I only felt worse and worse. Toward the afternoon I started feeling nauseous and feverish so I left work early and came home and slept. At 1am I woke up and my symptoms were much worse and my fever was making me dizzy and weak. I had already taken a lot of medicine which had obviously not helped and I started having severe abdominal pain so long story short I ended up in the Emergency Room after my friend Dan called an ambulance for me.

The ER was pretty standard (I've only been to the ER once in the States though). Of course everyone stared at me since I was the only white girl. The nurses knew very little English so explaining my symptoms turned into a game of charades. They ended up giving me an IV and x-raying my chest and doing blood work. In the end the ER doctor (who was very helpful and spoke decent English) told me I had an infection in my throat. He told me I should come back around 9am to see the regular doctor.

So I came home and tried to sleep but I still felt just as bad since I hadn't had any relief from my symptoms and I still had a high fever. So I ended up back in the ER at 8:30am where they put me back in a bed and took my temperature which turned out to be 102.5 degrees. At that point I had total numbness in my hands and feet and my whole body was shaking. I don't think I have ever felt so cold.

They did a sonogram of my abdomen and appendix to make sure there were no problems there and that turned out fine. They also took some more blood. The doctor this time was not very helpful and spoke hardly any English. He didn't seem to understand anything I said to him which was frustrating but in the end he prescribed 5 pills for me to take 3 times a day. I came home and took the meds and slept for 8 hours. When I woke up my fever was gone. Saturday I still felt lousy but no fever and today, Sunday, I am feeling so much better.

So I got to experience a Korean hospital. I have now been to a Korean ER more times than I've been to an American ER :-). I was very impressed with the ambulance service which arrived within 5 minutes of being called. Having compared experiences with some friends here, the general opinion seems to be that Korean doctors like to over medicate and tend to make things more serious than they are. In fact, my students are frequently telling me that they went to the hospital that week or that morning for things like headaches, coughs, sore throats, etc. I always thought you only went to the hospital if it was something really serious. Either way, thankfully I am feeling better now and although the hospital here was very nice, I would be more than happy to never have to go back there ever again.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

English Diaries

I asked my older students to write me a paragraph during Christmas vacation about what they did. Here are some excerpts:

"For Christmas I get up at 8 o'clock. It's very cold morning. Wow! Amazing! because on the bed two presents there! I ate breakfast and drink orange juice and I went to my room and opened my present box there are 4 Nintendo DS games and Nintendo case so I have very happy Christmas!!!"

"Today is New Year's Day. At last, I'm twelve years old. I'm 5 grade. Many people says, "The study in 5 grade is very hard." Oh no!! I want to speak English very well in this year and study very good and it's very important to everybody. Teacher is speak English very good. Happy New Year teacher!"

"Today is Christmas. It's holiday! My cousins and I went to my aunt's house yesterday. My aunts house is nearly to my house. I went to the movies with my younger brother. The movie's name is 'Alvin and the Chipmunks'. This movie is very interesting, fun, thrilling, and absurd. I want to go to the movies many times."

"Today is school and English academy winter vacation. I am very excited and good because school and English academy vacation. I am go to the ski and go to the snow. So I make a snow man and I am snow fighting with my brother. I am very excited."

"Today is Happy Christmas! My family went to my cousin's house because my Uncle is come back from the China. So my family was happy. We ate a duck. It smells good and delicious. Teacher, you are go to teacher's country USA? Wow! You were very happy when you go to the USA? Merry Christmas teacher!"